Riding the Kapela Pass: Exploring Croatia’s D23 Mountain Road

The Državna cesta D23 is a state road in Croatia that connects the inland region with the Adriatic coast, passing through the Kapela mountain range. The road’s most prominent feature is the Kapela Pass, which reaches an elevation of 889 m (2,917 ft). The route begins near the village of Munjava Modruška and stretches northward, serving as a vital link between the Lika and Gorski Kotar regions. The D23 is less frequented by heavy traffic compared to major highways, making it an appealing choice for motorcyclists interested in a quieter, more immersive riding experience. An interactive map showing the road’s course is available at the end of this article.

The D23 is approximately 23.5 km (14.6 miles) long, with the majority of its surface covered in high-quality asphalt. Riders will encounter a road that is moderately twisty, offering a mix of gentle and sharper curves, particularly as the route ascends and descends the Kapela Pass. The road is predominantly wide (about 90%), with only brief sections that narrow, ensuring comfortable passage for motorcycles and other vehicles. The elevation ranges from 366 m (1,201 ft) at its lowest point to 889 m (2,917 ft) at the summit of the pass. The maximum speed limits along the D23 vary between 70 km/h (43 mph), 50 km/h (31 mph), and 40 km/h (25 mph), depending on the specific section and proximity to settlements. The road passes through inhabited areas for a small portion of its length (approximately 13.6%), with the remainder traversing forested and mountainous terrain. The surface quality is generally very good, providing reliable grip and minimal potholes, which is advantageous for motorcyclists.

The highlight of the D23 is the Kapela Pass, a historic mountain crossing that has served as a key transit point between continental and coastal Croatia. The pass itself is surrounded by dense forests and offers occasional views of the surrounding peaks. While the D23 is not as well-known as some of Croatia’s coastal routes, it provides access to lesser-visited natural areas and traditional villages. The nearby Kapela mountain is part of the Dinaric Alps and is recognized for its biodiversity and hiking opportunities. Riders may also consider detouring to the town of Ogulin, known for its medieval castle and folklore, or exploring the forests of Gorski Kotar, which are popular among nature enthusiasts.

The D23, including the Kapela Pass, is generally open to motorcycles throughout the year. However, due to its elevation and exposure to mountain weather, the road can be subject to temporary closures or restrictions during winter months, particularly in cases of heavy snowfall or icy conditions. It is advisable for riders to check current road conditions before planning a trip, especially between November and April. Information on road closures and traffic updates can be found on the official Croatian Automobile Club (HAK) website.

There are currently no tolls or entrance fees required to ride the D23 or cross the Kapela Pass. The road is part of Croatia’s state road network and is maintained for public use. Riders should be aware that toll conditions may change in the future, and it is recommended to consult the Croatian Automobile Club (HAK) for the latest information on road fees and regulations. Fuel stations and amenities are limited along the D23, so planning refueling stops in advance is advisable.